It’s probably not so strange that the Norwegian climate and its incredible natural resources (combined with an informal lifestyle) has had a massive influence on the Norwegian fashion and textile industry. This natural bounty is key in Norwegian brands now thinking innately in a sustainable way. 

Norway began industrial textile manufacturing in the mid 1800s, with Oslo as the main production hub. The industry was fueled by traditional crafts, paired with the accessibility of wool and hydropower from Oslo’s main river, Akerselva. Soon there were mills and factories throughout most of the country, but by the mid 1900s companies had moved their manufacturing abroad. 

Norwegian fashion and textile design: Grown up green 

Gudbrandsdalens Uldvarefabrik has been supplying durable woolen furniture fabrics since 1887 and holds a competitive edge with a passion for both design and the environment. Most recently, Lillunn, a brand that for more than 60 years manufactured garments in Norwegian lambswool, was revitalized by young fashion designer Elisabeth Stray Pedersen. She carefully combines old traditions with contemporary design. 

Warm and durable materials for all kinds of weather have been essential in the development of Norwegian clothes and fashion design. For example, Helly Hansen, which since 1877 has provided protective waterproof gear for fishermen and workers, has also broken into the sports and streetwear markets by combining innovative materials with modern, stylish designs.

Designed by life 

Norwegian Fashion Hub works hard to promote and develop the Norwegian fashion industry, and has has done extensive research into what makes Norwegian design unique. In a democratic welfare society such as Norway, which is built on equality, creativity and quality are accessible to all. But perhaps more importantly, many cities are close to the great outdoors, and distances between work and home are short, so most Norwegians enjoy a varied and active lifestyle. 

We prefer clothes that not only look and feel good, also has a practical feature – items you can wear every day, regardless of weather or occasion, whether at work, at an after-work dinner or party. A typical office wardrobe for Norwegians is pretty casual and can include jeans and trainers to easily allow for both cycling to kindergarten, or meeting friends at a local restaurant. There are of course people who dress more formally, and you are likely to see them wearing galoshes from Swims over their shoes when it rains. But most contemporary Norwegian fashion is for regular everyday use. It’s designed to last, and natural fabrics such as wool, cotton and silk are combined with innovative technical materials to create garments that are comfortable and robust with a subtle and timeless design.

A few chose to stay, however, producing high-quality materials and providing important local employment, and have since then manifested their positions as Norway’s most renowned brands. Rauma has been producing outstanding woolen yarn since 1927, and Røros Tweed, which started out making woolen clothes for a cold mountain climate, is now a market leader in quality woolen blankets.

Taking Norwegian traditions abroad
It’s probably this down-to-earth approach that inspired Per Spook, the first Norwegian designer to have his own fashion house in Paris during the late 1970s. Although he had worked for legendary designers such as Christian Dior and Yves Saint-Laurent, Per stood out by incorporating traditional Norwegian patterns and techniques in his designs. He believed that women look their best if they feel comfortable and free, and he created an unpretentious style that was elegant and modern, often embracing strong colors and contrasts. He was also the first designer in Paris to dress models in flat shoes — quite shocking at the time and it challenged the preconception of female elegance.  

Since then, several Norwegian fashion designers and textile companies have made an international impact. Oleana designs and manufactures women’s knitwear in sustainable materials with modern interpretations of traditional patterns, while Moods of Norway took Norwegian symbols to the extreme with their trademark tractor logo and vivid colours; they even embroidered the number of registered tractors in Norway inside their suits and shirts. 

During the last few years, the interest in Norwegian fashion has exploded, thanks to a growing international interest in all things Scandinavian – whether it’s politics, design or our way of living. Designers and companies such as Tom Wood, Holzweiler, Norwegian Rain and Livid Jeans have all managed to gain a strong foothold abroad by building resilient brands based on quality natural materials, subtle design and the ever-so-intriguing notion of the Scandinavian lifestyle. 

A sustainable future for fashion
The fashion and textile industry in Norway currently has an annual turnover of around 100 billion NOK and employs about 52 000 people. Since 2016, export of textiles, clothes and leather goods has increased steadly. The potential is vast, but the industry faces enormous challenges globally. As one of the largest polluters in the world, the fashion and textile industry needs radical innovation and restructuring. Transitioning towards a sustainable industry is, therefore, a priority for Norwegian Fashion Hub in collaboration with the industry cluster NF&TA. As a result, several ongoing projects to develop relevant knowledge are on its way, involving local designers and manufacturers.

Consumers are increasingly choosing brands that are actively taking more responsibility for the environment and society as a whole. In Norway, the fashion industry is joining forces through Norwegian Fashion Hub to create a significant impact. New technology and more sustainable materials is a major driver of innovation, and through Manufacture Oslo textile companies aim to gain greater control over the development stage of their product cycle. 

New business models and companies are appearing as a reaction to fast fashion and large volume production. Increasing digital competence is also changing on-demand manufacturing worldwide. Building upon an international trend of purely digital fashion houses, Norwegian clothing retailer Carlings was among the first to launch its first digital collection with low environmental impact.

Whatever the future holds, now is the time to seize these new possibilities. The Norwegian fashion and textile industry is continuously working for a more sustainable future while valuing the knowledge and traditions from the past.